Misc work, but mostly fuel tank

TLDR

• Bent fuel sender
• Match drilled fuel tank cap
• Unclecoed right fuel tank
• Some work on left wing

Details

Fuel sender

According to the KAI, I bent the fuel sender floater arm to length and tested the ohm readings from a multi-meter.

At full, the reading is 4 ohm. And and empty the reading is 180-ish on both fuel senders. I will need to wait for fuel tank skin and rib to be riveted before test fitting the fuel sender and make sure the floater ball touches both top and bottom skin.

For now, the multi-meter test is good enough.

Bent floater arm

Fuel tank cap

I countersunk the fuel tank cap yesterday. It was a little tricky because the survey to countersink was not flat, so I had to hold the microstop drill bit flat with my hand. The end result was obviously not perfectly uniformed countersink holes but probably good enough. I will apply a lot of proseal for sure.

Fuel tank cap after countersink

Unclecoed fuel tank

Not much to say, this is the next step before sealing up the tank. I desembled everything to debur and clean the tank parts again.

I am a little nervous about breaking out the pro-seal, as I don’t know if I will have sufficient work time to get the job done. I have 3 tubes of proseal right now, and I think I will get the pint or quart canned proseal for the next fuel tank so I can mix as I go..

Everything is desembled, it’s getting real

Left wing

Lastly, I did some quick work before my EAA technical counselor comes tomorrow.

I unclecoed and removed the top skin from left wing. I imagine we will take a look at the innards before I close the wing.

I also tried to fit the main spar doubler one more time. The doubler’s hole was really terribly drilled. This is unlike Sling’s typical worksmanship. I’d say 30% of the holes just didn’t match.

I managed to match all the holes on the bottom side with no match drilling, but there is no way the top will match. I previously asked Sling if I can cut the doubler in half and match individually and they said it’s fine. So I matched about half of top doubler, match drilled a few, then drew a line using marker between the holes that I think will for sure not match. That’s aboutu 6 holes towards the outboard end. I will cut them in half along the marker line and match individually. Probalby will also use super glue to hold it to the spar before riveting.