Starter Relay and Fusebox, Regulator
TLDR
- Finished installing the starter relay
- Installed the Rotax regulator
Details
Starter Relay
Previously, I had a hard time figuring out how to get the power from master relay to the start relay, and planned to install a small bus bar. After consulting with Midwest Panel Builders, they recommended to stack 2 battery lugs back to back on the master relay.
I rebuilt the power cables with two #4 lugs. To fit with enough clearance, I had to bend the two lugs about 30 degrees away from the master relay. But in the end it did fit.
After solving the power cable issue, the rest was easy. I routed the cable behind where the regulator was supposed to go, then connected the other end to the lug on the starter relay.
Note I haven’t done anything to the other lug yet. I will do that when the engine is installed so I could figure out the exact length of the cable I would need.
Fusebox and Regulator
Installing the Rotax fusebox wasn’t difficult. The instruction from KAI was pretty clean. The slight complexity from the stock Rotax instruction is that Sling wants me to take the regulator B off the fusebox, and install it on the engine mount with a heat sink (provided by Sling).
There were only 2 M6 screws securing the regulator B to the fusebox, so removing it wasn’t difficult. After removal, I had plenty of clearance to install the fusebox to the firewall, so I did that before mounting the regulator B on the engine mount.
Then I used the Sling provided parts to mount the regulator to the engine mount. It’s essentially secured through 2 adel clamps, with a long spacer and M6 bolts.
Before tightening the bolts on the regulator, I had to attach a grounding wire from the regulator B to its original grounding plate on the fusebox.
